6/19/08 El Capitan State Park-Gaviota State Park (12 miles)
Yeah, running down the train tracks in the full moon might have seemed like a good idea, but my legs tell me it wasn’t. Huge day yesterday, lots of miles, and now I feel a good amount of soreness in my left leg. Ah well–
Walked the train tracks a good deal on the way to Gaviota. Quite hot, probably close to 100 degrees out there. Tuned in some good right wing radio, a little Padres baseball. I swear the combination of the railroad tracks and the transistor radio turns back the clock a few decades. And I’m glad.
Got into Gaviota Beach state park in the late afternoon. The park sits directly below the railroad tracks, near the 101. A pretty beach a few hundred yards away. Shared a hike and bike camp w/ an older gentleman riding his bike to oregon to see his sister. He’s ridden from Malibu that day. Some swimming…. A huge red moon a dramatic backdrop to my girlfriends voice on the phone, a long way away.
6/20/08 Gaviota-Lompoc
Woke, coffee (2 cups), swim. 101 to the 1 and out towards Lompoc. Hot hot road, absolutely no shade. Dusty and pretty and not really built for walking. Here is the dreaded section of the hike where there is no access to the coast. Between the private Hollister and Bixby ranch areas and Vandenberg air force base, the walker must walk around. I walked about 15 of the 20 miles up hwy 1 then got a ride into town by a nice fellow who thought I was crazy. Arrived at the rv campground by the Santa Ynez river which was hot and dusty, ok for rv’s but much too desired for a simple campsite. Ambled into town, limping (my left leg still hurting) and found a little bar, DJ’s Saloon. Here I was greeted sweetly by the bartender who bought me drinks, was a traveler herself. A surprisingly good jukebox, an air-conditioned room. Stayed for a while. Finally decided on a Motel 6, way outside of my budget, but necessary today. Really don’t want this leg to become an injury, and a nice bed and hot shower seemed to be the best choice. What is it with hotel rooms? The tv, the beer, they bring out a side of me. Good thing I’m not a traveling salesman.
6/21 Lompoc-Guadalupe-Grover Beach (13 miles hiking)
A cab to the train station on the coast of Lompoc. A train to Guadalupe, a small town with no tourists. Hitchhiked to Guadalupe beach, a ride from a local boy named Justin who thought I was a little like the kid Chris McCandless from ‘Into the Wild’. I assured him I wasn’t, though I could use the money he burned.
An amazing walk along Guadalupe beach, wide open and wild, white sands. Sand dunes and snowy plovers, very little access so very few people. Miles and miles of walking alone (and with the birds.) This soon changed, though. Approaching Oceano and the miles of beach access to cars, RV’s, ATV’s…. Sunburned girls drinking way too many Bud Light’s, their shirtless boyfriends eying me like I’m nuts. Flags waving: American flags, confederate flags, Bud Light flags, Jack Daniels. Lots of kids running around.
In Grover Beach I met up w/ Nancy Graves, a Coastwalk volunteer and a wonderful woman. She met at the beach and we walked the coastal trail to her home in Grover Beach where she made a lovely dinner. Her friend Carmello came by, another Coastwalk volunteer, and we talked and poured over maps. Dreamed of the day when we can walk north from Grover Beach into the Irish Hills and beyond. These are two truly amazing women and I’m grateful to have met them. Ended the night watching a Ramones documentary, fell into dreams of one day, too, being a rock star.
6/22 Grover Beach-Avila Hot Springs (8 miles)
Pismo Beach and the pier. Car show, a carnival atmosphere. Sort of like Fisherman’s wharf in SF. Kind of enjoyed it, bought some candy at the candy store. And some new sunglasses.
Slow crawl through Pismo and into Shell Beach. Stopped for pancakes. The coast trail stays along the bluffs through Shell beach and into Avila. At the cliffs hotel in Shell beach I walked upon a festival in the grass. Beer on tap, food, pretty girls hoola-hooping in the sun. 3 bands, all pretty good but you know the sound: a version of wedding music, a little soul, regae, rock…. I kicked my hacky-sack, drank two beers, and continued walking.
Avila hot springs sits just off the 1. I got a campsite and settled in, sat in the piped in pool for awhile. Lots of family’s there, I was definatley the only hiker. Sat around that pretty and cool night, listening to some of my favorite songs on college radio–
6/23 Avila hot springs-Morro Bay State Park (20 miles)
Woke up to Will Oldham’s text message: “Going to jump in a lake in czech.”
Coffee and huge pancakes, reading Cormac McCarthy. Soak in the tub w/ strangers, and a day of walking on the road. Pleasant at that: Los Osos Valley Road mostly, views of the & Sisters.
So behind me comes the highway patrol. Walking quietly up the road, “Is everything ok?” “Where are you from?” “Where are you going?” Far away from you, I’m thinking. “Somewhere close to Oregon.” “You’re crazy” he says. So I guess I’m crazy. Pulled over by the highway patrol because A: I’m homeless B: I’m crazy, as in on drugs. C: I have something to hide, and don’t we all. Well, I smiled and talked an was intelligent enough for him so I walked, an he drove away. The second experience I have had w/ law enforcement for no reason but that I was walking w/ a backpack.
South Bay blvd. into Morro Bay a car comes behind me and starts honking. It’s the Sharkey’s, my best friend Matt and his amazing wife Delilia, kids Aiden and Quentin. Caught up w/ me on their way back south to Long Beach. Pure love, we had fish and chips in town. A photo-shoot. Dropped me off at the hike and bike site in the park where I slept and didn’t remember any of my dreams.
